April 28, 2025
Here’s the thing: drive two hours south of Goa and you’ll land in Karwar, a coastal town in Karnataka that’s been quietly minding its business, serving sensational seafood, and being fabulous long before "hidden gems" became a hashtag.
So, What’s the Big Deal About Karwar?
Karwar is like that understated friend who doesn’t scream for attention but somehow ends up being the most interesting person in the room. Think pristine beaches, sleepy islands, bustling fish markets, and a cuisine so good it almost causes an identity crisis ("Wait, this isn’t Goan food?"). Spoiler: it's not.
The best part? Karwar still feels like real coastal India, just less Instagram-ready sundowner, more salty-air, bare-feet kind of magic.
A Quick Rewind
Before the Portuguese sailed in, Karwar was part of several Indian kingdoms and shared close cultural ties with Goa. In the 1600s, Shivaji made a dramatic entrance, crossing the Kali River to seize Sadashivgad Fort. Over the next two centuries, the town was caught in a tug-of-war between the Marathas, the East India Company, Tipu Sultan, and the Sultanate of Bijapur. After the Marathas' defeat, Karwar became part of the Bombay Presidency under British India and grew into a busy port town. In 1882, a young Rabindranath Tagore even fell under its spell, dedicating a chapter of his memoirs to Karwar’s serene beaches.
Despite its Konkani roots, post-Independence state reorganizations placed Karwar under Mysore State (now Karnataka), while Goa eventually claimed the Konkani cultural spotlight. But Karwar? It stayed quietly beautiful, its natural harbour, rivers, forts, and islands like Devbagh and Kurumgad still whispering stories of a layered past.
The Real Depth of Karwari Cuisine
Karwari food is vast and largely unexplored. Sometimes, I wish it were more mainstream so people would stop reducing it to "fish curry and rice" or lumping it in as just a cousin of Goan food. Konkani cuisine as a whole is one of the most versatile culinary traditions of India, shaped by influences from Maharashtra, South India, Portuguese techniques, and even Mughal styles brought in by royal cooks. In Karwar, this culinary tapestry has woven itself even richer thanks to the convergence of many communities.
The Konkan-Marathas (or Kokanas), warrior migrants from Goa; Daivadnya Brahmins and GSBs from Mangalore (who brought ghee roasts, neer dosas, and gassis); Goan settlers chasing new opportunities; Konkani Muslims introducing biryanis cooked in coconut milk and soured with dry mango — all of these have left their mark.
Add to that the incredible knowledge of wild greens and game meat from the indigenous Kunabi and Siddhi communities, and you get a cuisine that’s deeply coastal yet richly complex. Over time, Karwari food has evolved into a delicious amalgamation of Goan and South Karnataka flavours, creating a unique style that stands proudly apart from typical Konkani cooking.
A Food Scene That’ll Redefine Your Seafood Standards
First rule of Karwar: respect the mackerel. This is a mackerel town but not all mackerels are created equal. Here, different varieties are prized for different recipes, and everyone has (very delicious) opinions about it.
Start at the Sunday Fish Market where seafood is as fresh as eating it straight from the sea and the fairly large market is squeaky clean. There’s even a dedicated dried fish market (look out for the dried shark) because in Karwar, waste is a dirty word. But seafood isn't the only showstopper. The local produce is just as tempting: think meaty breadfruit, fresh kokum, Malabar spinach, and more. Stock up at UK Pickles (no, not British — better) for their iconic mango pickles, and snag some Bedgi chillies that are known more for their flavour and less for their heat. Skip the heaps of chilli available in the vegetable market (a birdie tells me they aren’t authentic) and head to Shanbag Stores for the real deal. What’s a trip without a snack? Grab some khaje from Purohit Stores. This sweet snack is made from deep-fried chickpea flour strands (very similar to Gujarati gathiya), coated in melted jaggery infused with ginger juice, and finished with a sprinkle of sesame seeds. It’s sweet, spicy, savoury — basically, a whole personality in one bite.
Lunch at Swetha Lunch Home is non-negotiable. Go for the mackerel thali, add a side of rava-fried oysters or prawns ghee roast, and trust me: take a seat in the AC section unless you want a full coastal-heat experience.
When You’re Not Eating (Which, Let’s Be Honest, Won’t Be Often)
Karwar’s version of fun is blissfully simple — salty air, endless blue water, and the kind of peace you’ll want to bottle up and bring home.
Here’s your checklist:
Fish Market Frolic: Wake up early and catch the seafood madness in full swing by the coast or at the dedicated market itself.
Market Meandering: Hunt for pickles, spices, dried seafood, and sweets.
Beach Bumming: Tagore Beach, Devbagh Beach, and Karwar Beach await — quiet, clean, and criminally underrated.
Island-Hopping Around Karwar: Just off the coast, Karwar offers a handful of charming islands worth exploring. Devbagh Island, set at the delta where the Kali River meets the Arabian Sea, is a peaceful escape dotted with quaint resorts — perfect for a quiet beachside stay. A short boat ride away is Kurumgad Island, known for its unique tortoise shape, an abandoned lighthouse, and the ancient Narasimha Temple perched atop its rocky terrain. Both islands are easily accessible by boat and offer a glimpse into Karwar’s untouched coastal beauty.
Why Karwar Should Be Your Next Coastal Escape
Karwar doesn’t shout for your attention — it hums, it charms, and it quietly wins you over. It’s a little off-radar, a lot authentic, and just the right amount of adventure without the chaos of a tourist stampede. November to February are the best time to visit and the road from Goa to Karwar is very smooth.
A big shout out to Arati Naik for taking me on a tour of Karwar and sharing her love and knowledge with me.
