In Pondicherry, Three Stays Reveal Three Ways to Experience the City

From a former bishop’s residence turned private luxury villa to a heritage homestay filled with stories, a recent trip to Pondicherry offered an immersive look at the city through three very different stays—and a table-hopping trail of local and global flavours.

Pondicherry is a city that invites pause. With its mustard-hued French villas, Tamil courtyard homes, tree-lined promenades, and a scent of salt in the air, time here moves a little differently. Over the course of one trip, I checked into three very distinct properties across three categories—private luxury, boutique heritage, and homestay. Each offered a window into a different version of Pondy, and together they sketched a fuller picture of a city that rewards the unhurried traveller.

Résidence de L’Evêché by CGH Earth

Tucked away in the French Quarter, Résidence de L’Evêché is an exclusive three-suite heritage villa restored by CGH Earth. Once home to Pondicherry’s bishop, the property retains its colonial architecture, high ceilings, antique furniture, and a quiet, church-like serenity. What sets it apart is its blend of privacy and service—you have the house to yourself, but with the polish of a luxury hotel.

Guests are invited to use the pool and restaurant at Palais de Mahe, a minute’s walk away. I spent long afternoons here, sipping cocktails by the pool and enjoying seafood-heavy meals—the grilled tiger prawns and mango cheese gelato are worth writing home about.

A highlight was lunch at Maison Perumal, CGH Earth’s Tamil heritage hotel, where I sat down to a traditional banana leaf meal and a live cooking demonstration in the open courtyard kitchen—an invitation into the home-style kitchens of Tamil Nadu.

Category: Private Luxury
Rooms: 3 suites
Location: 6.5 km from Pondicherry Airport

Rates: From Rs. 35,000 per night

Gratitude Heritage

For those seeking stillness, Gratitude offers just that. Housed in a restored Franco-Tamil home, the boutique hotel in White Town is deliberately unplugged—no televisions, no room service, no WiFi in rooms. The red oxide floors, vintage art, and flowering courtyard create an atmosphere that encourages rest and reflection.

Evenings here are social. I joined other guests at the long dining table for a home-cooked Tamil meal, served by the hotel’s warm, attentive all-women staff. Gratitude also offers yoga sessions and Ayurvedic treatments on request.

Category: Boutique Heritage
Rooms: 8
Location: 6 km from Pondicherry Airport

Rates: From ₹6,500 per night, including breakfast

La Maison de Bitasta

Eclectic and deeply personal, La Maison de Bitasta offers more than just accommodation—it’s an invitation into the home of a collector, cook, and storyteller. Located just off the East Coast Road, a short drive from central Pondicherry, the homestay reflects its host’s travels and creative spirit through layered interiors filled with books, ceramics, and textiles. Each of the spacious rooms has a distinct character, with hand woven bed linen and curtains crafted by Bitasta’s daughter, Bidisha, whose design label—Lal Design Studio—has a dedicated space at the front of the property.

Here, I tried my hand at folding Cha Gio (Vietnamese spring rolls) during a relaxed cooking session with Bitasta and her daughter Bidisha, followed by long conversations over chai. Mornings began with filter coffee, crisp hot dosas on the terrace; evenings were unhurried, often ending with impromptu meals or music.

Category: Homestay
Rooms: 3
Location: Approx. 7 km from the airport

Rates: From ₹3,500 per night, including breakfast

A Trail of Taste

Pondicherry’s food scene continues to surprise. From street snacks like mutton bonda, mutton samosas, and pepper soup to cafés and patisseries, there's something for every appetite.

A few standout stops:

• Coromandel Café for modern plates, craft cocktails and lemon pie.
• Bread & Chocolate for buttery croissants and excellent coffee. They also have a shop that sells bean-to-bar chocolates and vegan truffles by Aurovillian brand, Mason & C0.
• GMT Gelato. Their popular outlet is on the promenade, however I preferred the variety and service at the one in White Town.
• Maa Ilay, a zero-waste shop stocking local snacks and dry spices.
• Villa Helena’s spectacular cheesecake. I think they make it from ricotta giving it a deep grainy texture.
• Bel-ami hosts a supper club every now and then and I got the chance to dine on seasonal plates with a whole bunch of locals.
• Pondy Yacht Club for a sunrise sail—a peaceful counterpoint to the city's colonial charm. 
• Creole cuisine at Chez Pushpa - a home chef. Book in advance.
• Korean fare at Nowana, Auroville
• Crêpes at Crêpe in Touch
• Fiery mutton biryani at Kamatchi Mess.
  

The Takeaway

Pondicherry reveals itself slowly. Whether you’re tucked away in a private villa, gathering around a communal table, or making dumplings in someone’s home kitchen, the city rewards you with depth and discovery. My three stays brought three different versions of Pondy to life—elegant, contemplative, and homely—but what tied them all together was a sense of generosity, of people and place alike.

For anyone looking to experience Pondicherry beyond the postcard, consider switching up where you stay. The city is best savoured from many angles—and always, at your own pace.

PS: To move around, contact auto rickshaw driver Vincent +91 99946 78372. He also took us to some super local street food places.

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